In these videos I am going to show you how to resize a ring, resizing is usually done to increase the size rather than decrease. The ring in these videos has a pronounced raised letters inside the shank of the ring, so you can’t stand it on a triplet as you will damage the raised letters inside the ring. The starting size is 16.15 mm and the customer needs it to be 18 mm. I am going to start by cutting the opposite side of those letters through the bottom of the shank or bottom of the ring. Make sure you cut it straight keeping it even, let the blade do the work.
Applying some heat makes the metal more pliable, I am going to use half round pliers and bend it out. Make sure what you do on one side you do on the opposite side as well otherwise it won’t be even. click here to see all 3 videos
The bending hasn’t made much difference so I am going to continue to bend it out. As you can see it has started to become uneven, so I use bigger pliers to bend the ring into a curve and make it even. It is now at 17.8 mm.
I am going to put more metal into it to expand it to 18mm this is known as sizing stock which can be grafted into the metal of the ring. I am going to bend a piece of metal which is slightly bigger than the ring itself.
I select a doming punch of 17.3 mm which is the nearest size to what we need for this purpose and bend the metal around it. I use a pallet when doing this as a hammer would damage the metal.
It is now even but I am going to cut the end off to straighten it. I curve it a little and with my gauge I score it so I know where to cut, I find licking the saw blade stops it sticking.
After filing it gently I secure it with binding wire.
It is now ready to put into the jewellery pickle, remove the binding wire after removing it from the pickle otherwise the metal will redden which is an unwanted effect.
I gently file it again using a half round file for this avoiding the lettering.
I select a doming tool which balances above the ring and gently tap the tool with a hammer to flatten it slightly.
I then buff it with emery paper until all the marks have been removed, going over it evenly.I use a split pin with emery paper to polish the inside of the ring. I also buff the edges so they aren’t sharp as this would make it uncomfortable to wear.
I polish it with a mop attachment to bring out the shine. I finish with a brush and washing up liquid, if you haven’t got a jewellers brush a toothbrush will be sufficient.You can now see the finished ring that has been resized.
learn more on how to make jewellery